Arn0

Hot Bodies Cyclone

394 posts in this topic

Ca n' a rien a voir mais j' ai une cyclone hara edition mais je n' ai pas la fiche des ratios et a cause de ca j' ai grilé un moteur donc si il y a quelqu' un qui a une info qu' il me la donne.

merci qand meme.

a+

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ca n' a rien a voir mais j' ai une cyclone hara edition mais je n' ai pas la fiche des ratios et a cause de ca j' ai grilé un moteur donc si il y a quelqu' un qui a une info qu' il me la donne.

merci qand meme.

a+

Regarde si tu trouves ce dont tu as besoin dans ce sujet

Sinon voici un fichier Excel pré-défini qui devrait faire l'affaire, à condition de connaître le rapport interne qui doit être 2.25 ou voisin de cela de souvenir.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Regarde si tu trouves ce dont tu as besoin dans ce sujet

Sinon voici un fichier Excel pré-défini qui devrait faire l'affaire, à condition de connaître le rapport interne qui doit être 2.25 ou voisin de cela de souvenir.

Salut le rapport est de 2.4375 sur la notice de la version moore .

@+

Yann

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

c'est facile a calculé un raport interne ,

c'est le nb de dent de la la grosse pouli/ petite pouli

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Merci mais on m' a dit qu le ratio de la moore est diférent de la hara edition c fanaom qui m'a dit ca.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

67714_01.jpg

#67714 2 Way Diff (One-Way/Spool)

Cyclone, Cyclone TC

Boost the performance of your Cyclone touring car with the new HB 2-Way Diff!

This unique drivetrain part gives you the option of having one part act as a super-durable one-way diff as well as a locking spool, giving you the best of both worlds and letting you set up your car for both tight, twisty tracks and wide, sweeping courses.

Comes complete with everything necessary for assembly and installation.

This is also a spare part for the Cyclone TC.

Can be upgraded further with #67731 POM Solid Axle Cup Joint to replace the standard steel cup joints with extra-light POM plastic.

http://www.hbeurope.com/products/en/67714.html

67714_02.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Salut , en regardant les photos de la nouvelle cyclone et en les comparant a ma moore , je ne vois pas de grande differences , si ce n'est la platine sup , le diff (?) et d'autres petites choses .

Est ce que quelqu'un saurait l'avantage / inconveniant de la nouvelle platine ? Que peut elle apporter ?

Le diff est-il rééllement nouveau ? Et est-il moins "chatouilleu" que celui des versions precedente ?

Voila toute les questions que je me pose et auquelles je n'arrive pas a trouver de reponse *pendu*

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Le diff est entierement nouveau, plus endurant et surtout bien moins capricieux.

Pour la platine pas de grosse difference, sinon le chassis aussi est "nouveau", et la platine arrière est en epoxy noire.

Apparement ils ont aussi bcp fait attention à la qualité des matériaux. (chassis platine...) donc même si les pièces semblent les mêmes visuellements en "dynamique" c'est peut être bien différent.

EN plus de cela le nouveau chassis recoit des baques plastique pour le pack

Les triangles sont réversibles.

LE montage des barres anti-roulis a été optimisé. (plus besoin de reprendre les boules de triangle par exemple....

Il doit aussi y avoir les poulies centrales de 18 dents d'origine au lieu de 16.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Le diff est entierement nouveau, plus endurant et surtout bien moins capricieux.

Pour la platine pas de grosse difference, sinon le chassis aussi est "nouveau", et la platine arrière est en epoxy noire.

Apparement ils ont aussi bcp fait attention à la qualité des matériaux. (chassis platine...) donc même si les pièces semblent les mêmes visuellements en "dynamique" c'est peut être bien différent.

EN plus de cela le nouveau chassis recoit des baques plastique pour le pack

Les triangles sont réversibles.

LE montage des barres anti-roulis a été optimisé. (plus besoin de reprendre les boules de triangle par exemple....

Il doit aussi y avoir les poulies centrales de 18 dents d'origine au lieu de 16.

Merci S_Fender !

Ca fait donc pas mal de changement ... Le diff est-il "adaptable" sur les anciennes versions (moore / hara etc...) car ca reglerai le "gros" default de la cylcone .

Il y a aussi la roue libre convertible en spool apparement ... ca a l'air pas mal .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Le diff Pro je l'ai sur ma Moore... et c'est le jour et la nuit avec l'ancien... Surtout parce que la butée a billes est a l'opposé du ressort...

Par contre le nouveau multi-spool-chose-machin j'ai pas tellement confiance avec de gros moteur...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Le diff Pro je l'ai sur ma Moore... et c'est le jour et la nuit avec l'ancien... Surtout parce que la butée a billes est a l'opposé du ressort...

Par contre le nouveau multi-spool-chose-machin j'ai pas tellement confiance avec de gros moteur...

Ok , merci , ca c'est une belle evolution ! jte Mpise pour un renseignement ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

z'avez remarque qu'ils ont ameliore le multi-diff xray en permettant de ne bloque qu' UNE sortie de RL??? C'est pas de la technique de pointe, ca? Si tu as un circuit qui "flow" a gauche et qui a plein d'epingles a droite, tu bloques seulement la sortie gauche, et hop, tu fais d'une pierre deux coups!

(a part ca je serais Juraj je leur collerais un proces au derche... je croyais qu'il etait brevete leur machin?)

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Justement, je pense que c'est le système avec une seule goupille et la pièce centrale qui est brevetée...

Là le système est identique à celui qui équipe la Mugen ou encore la Serpent (en nitro), et peut etre aussi la Serpent S400 mais suis pas sûr.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Et vous pensez vraiment que c'est solide?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Je ne sais pas quelle est l'épaisseur du corps de RL Cyclone, mais vu ce que peut prendre un spool de 720 ou de MTX4 dans les dents, d'autant plus avec des pneus mousse, je pense que ça doit supporter les BL les plus violents en électrique.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bonjour , tout a l'heure , en effectuant une verif de mes reglages au banc , je me suis aperçu que je n'avais pas le meme pincement arriere a gauche et a droite . Donc a gauche 3.5° et a droite 2.5° (je qui me semble deja enorme!) Mais je n'arrive pas a voir comment cela ce regle . A l'avant je l'ai deja reglé grace aux bielettes de directions (qui partent au fusées) , mais a l'arriere je ne trouve pas .

Sur le site de overrc j'ai regardé les differentes maniere de le regler et apparement cela ce regle par des pieces (fusées ou porte triangle) . Les portes triangles devrait forcement donner la meme valeur a gauche et a droite et les fusées ne sont pas marqué (donc je suppose neutre) .

Voila mon probleme ... Si quelqu'un sait comment regler le pincement arriere d'une cyclone , ca m'aiderai beaucoup .

Merci d'avance

Yann

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

C'est une cyclone TC?

J'ai lu quelque part qu'il y avait eu de mauvaises séries de chassis mal percé... Ce qui expliquerait l'asymétrie...

Par contre je sais pas si qqch est prévu pour rattraper le coup...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
C'est une cyclone TC?

J'ai lu quelque part qu'il y avait eu de mauvaises séries de chassis mal percé... Ce qui expliquerait l'asymétrie...

Par contre je sais pas si qqch est prévu pour rattraper le coup...

Salut , non c'est la moore edition .

Je trouve qu'elle roule deja trés bien mais elle a tendance a decrocher a l'acceleration en sortie de virage , et je la sens un peu "molle" dans les virages rapides (pas lente juste molle)

J'espere que ca ne vient pas du chassis *pendu*

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

C'est un bonne idée ce one way/spool comme le multi diff de chez Xray ;);)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tu as quoi comme cale de pincement arriere? 3.0 ? c'est étrange ces valeurs... Tout le reste de la triangulation est en bonne état? est-ce que tu as de l'alu qq part?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oui cale arriere de 3° (si c'est bien le support de triangle en alu (?)) , par d'options alu par rapport a l'origine . Les pieces de triangulations ont l'air en bon etat ... Mais bon je pense que je vais remplacer la triangulation (1 triangle (car j'en ai qu'un) et les 2 fusées . Je vais voir si les valeurs change .

Merci

Yann

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

open.jpg

Words: Tony Phalen

Issue 154 (September 2008)

I enjoy all types of racing, but particularly love touring cars. The speeds, the precision driving, and the whole 'rubbing is racing' concept are all great. When I received this assignment I thought it would be an interesting change of pace (for me, anyway) to base the article around a racing experience; I would just build the car and go racing! This would be a 'first' for me, since I usually spend a day or so down at the track doing some shake down runs...making sure everything is working properly and that I have a decent setup. As I gathered the equipment for the test, I noticed a few other 'firsts' I would be encountering; it would be my first time running the HB TC, my first time running a Team Orion Brushless motor, and my first time running a LiPo battery pack in a touring car. Finally, though, the car was built, the body was painted and the maintenance free motor and battery were installed. I was ready to race!

04.jpg

FEATURES

Two-Way Front One-Way Differential/Locking Spool • Included with the new HB TC is a purple anodized front one-way differential/locking spool. To convert, simply remove the unit from your car and either insert or remove the locking pins which hold the diff joint cups in place. This allows racers to use the same part on tight courses or long, wide open tracks.

Molded Battery Tray • The TC includes a molded battery tray that fits right into the battery slots. This saves the time of filing the slots (to keep from cutting the cells) and helps prevent the battery from ejecting out of the car in a crash. While not a new idea, it's nice that Hot Bodies has included such a simple, useful item in a touring car.

Reversible Suspension Arms • Why reversible? It's simple. Hot Bodies has molded extra shock mount holes on both sides of the arm in 'half-hole' increments, three on one side, two on the other. This gives you five different mounting locations in the arm and, in conjunction with the massive number of holes in the towers, offers a lot of fine tuning options.

03.jpg01.jpg02.jpg

• New Pro Spec Ball Differential: The new Pro Spec Differential includes lightweight POM (Polyoxymethylene) outdrives and a newly designed titanium nitride-coated diff screw and nut. It is lighter, stronger, and requires less maintenance than its predecessor.

• Thicker, Low-Mount Shock Towers: These new ultra-thick (3.65mm) towers include several 'half-hole' positions which allow you to really fine tune your setup. Their low-profile design begs you to slam your body as low as you can.

• Easy-Adjust Anti-Roll Bar Holders: An uneven anti-roll bar can cause some major havoc to your car's handling. Hot Bodies has developed a pretty simple method of making minor adjustments on the fly: Tighten or loosen the ballstud to tweak the bar one way or the other. Great if you need to make a quick adjustment without disassembling the anti-roll bars.

• 2.0mm FRP Middle Block Deck: The new FRP Middle Block Desk is probably one of the best 'upgrades' offered. It allows a little more flex in the rear of the car, which makes the TC much more consistent on the track. I'm putting one on all my HB cars!

• 18T Center Pulleys: The new center pulleys change the drive ratio from 2.4375 to 2.167, much more suitable for the new generation of torquey brushless motors. The pulleys also improve drivetrain efficiency, allowing you to run more gear without overheating your electronics. The results are more speed without the loss of low-end torque.

Testing

Charlie Barnes of OC Circuit runs a great monthly parking lot program at a local HobbyTown in Corona, California. What better way to test out a new racecar than on the track, right? Well, on the wonderful June day I chose to race, the mercury topped out at a cozy 111 degrees, setting track temperatures at a blistering 152 degrees! This was certainly going to be a true test of vehicle, electronics, and, more importantly, my ability to keep my cool under severe racing conditions.

Acceleration and Speed • I did a quick shake down practice run to make sure everything was in working order. After giving the car a thorough once-over, I was ready for racing! At the sound of the tone in the first round of qualifying, the car launched with zero hesitation right into the lead! I expected some wheel spin or slippage due to the heat, but the RP tires gripped the incredibly hot track like rubber on sandpaper. Power was definitely not a problem thanks to the potent combination of the Orion Vortex 10.5T motor and the lightweight Orion 3600 Race Spec LiPo pack. While I was starting to feel the effects of the heat, the TC certainly wasn't. I finished qualifying one whole lap ahead of the pack...I don't think I'll run standard cells ever again!

Rating: 10/9

Braking • The brakes were strong and consistent, but began to suffer from the heat at about the two minute mark, and I had to start slowing down a little earlier each time I entered the 180 degree hairpin. I checked the temps after each run and found that both the ESC and the motor were scorching hot, probably well outside their recommended temperature levels. I'm really surprised the LRP ESC didn't dump into its thermal shutdown protection mode, but that just goes to show you the quality of today's racing equipment. As a safety precaution, I'll be installing fans on these components for future summer races.

Rating: 8

Low-Speed • The track had two nice low-speed sections, a pretty slow S section and a tight 180 degree hairpin. With the stock setup, the TC flowed effortlessly through the S section. The hairpin, however, required me to slow down a little earlier than I felt I needed to (more because of brake fade, but partly because the car just wouldn't get into the turn). A quick adjustment to the front end helped out, but then I lost a bit of speed though the long sweeper. I opted for more speed and ended up going back to the kit setup.

Rating: 9.5

High-Speed Handling • As mentioned, there was a long sweeper leading into the first turn at the end of the straight. This is where the TC really shone, and I could make up a lot of ground on the competition! As it charged deep into the corner, the TC kept its composure without a hint of breaking the rear end loose, and, with a quick blip of the throttle, held a tight line all the way to the first corner. This was the best place to pull off a pass, and I was really quite amazed and how tight and consistent I was able to keep the car each and every lap.

Rating: 10

Wrenching

Maintenance • I performed a thorough check of the car after each round of racing. Everything looked great. The shocks showed no signs of leaking. All the screws stayed nice and tight in the plastic and aluminum parts. The rear differential did need a quick re-tightening after the first round, but that's not unusual. One thing I did have to take care of, and something you might want to do during assembly, was to apply a very small dab of blue threadlock to the set screw that holds the spur gear hub to the center shaft. Mine backed out during the initial run and I had to replace it. It probably wouldn't hurt to apply some threadlock on the two center pulleys also.

Rating: 9

Wear and Tear • Luckily I didn't have to test the durability of this car (there are some pretty nasty parking curbs at this track) other than through some good ol' door to door racing (and the incredible heat). The RP tires held up like champs with no sign of blistering, and the differentials were still smooth as silk. The only real issue I had wasn't with the car, the electronics, the tires or, really, any component that I was testing...it happened to be with the servo tape holding the electronics to the chassis! It was so hot that the glue on the tape started to loosen up, causing the ESC and receiver to lift. Replacing it with some high-stick carpet tape did the trick!

Rating: 10

Tuning • The stock setup is almost perfect for low to medium traction tracks. I did adjust the front inner camber links and shock locations to see how much they would affect the car. While it did handle the tighter sections of the track better, it scrubbed a bit too much speed (for my liking) through the sweeper, and I thought that was a much more important part of the track. I eventually gravitated back towards the kit setup, and that's what I ran in the main. The box stock setup is just that good.

Rating: 10

Conclusion

While there are no drastic changes from previous editions, the Hot Bodies TC is impressive out of the box. The new additions only make the car perform better and make it easier to tune. I've driven a few other manufacturers' cars at this track but seem to always be chasing the setup (cool mornings and hot afternoons). It was a nice change of pace to just put the car down and drive without worrying about how it would handle. It was stable at high speeds and loved long, sweeping corners. It was also quite nimble, and handled switchbacks and S turns as if they were a straight line. Predictable? Absolutely. I knew exactly what the car was going to do each lap. Consistent? Very. And I have the lap times to prove it. Almost sounds boring, but I'll take a car that is stable, nimble, predictable, and consistent any day of the week, because at the end of the day, I can win races with it. I finished first in the A-main with the Cyclone TC, box stock setup and all.

specs-icon.gif

08.jpg

http://www.rc411.com/pages/reviews.php?review=73

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Salut

en ce qui concerne l'assymetrie du train arriere tu n'es pas le seul (Jon - Romain a aussi le probleme sur son kit). Le porte fusee arriere est le meme sur la Cyclone que sur la TC, donc pas de surprises que ca se retrouve sur les deux. Meme les pilotes du team admettent qu'il y a un probleme, ils repercent les porte-fusees arriere pour corriger la deviation et les immobilisent par deux vis pointeau (voir rctech.net, thread sur la Cyclone).

Moi ca me rappelle plein de bons souvenirs sur ma TC3, tout ca... ;)

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:DJe dois avouer que j'ai pas le problème...

Mais je croyais que ca venait du chassis mal percé et pas des porte fusées arrière... J'ai honte mais j'avoue j'ai des porte fusées arrière en alu :m

Je vérifie souvent qu'elles ne sont pas tordues justement...

NB: Mon Durga arrive cette semaine :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
:DJe dois avouer que j'ai pas le problème...

Mais je croyais que ca venait du chassis mal percé et pas des porte fusées arrière... J'ai honte mais j'avoue j'ai des porte fusées arrière en alu :m

Je vérifie souvent qu'elles ne sont pas tordues justement...

NB: Mon Durga arrive cette semaine :D

en fait j'avais compris que c'etait sur les porte fusees... mais c'est pitetre sur le chassis? En tout cas ils rectifient au niveau des porte fusees ;)

Tu vas rouler ou en TT? Je me suis inscrit au MBLR...

a+

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now