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Hot Bodies D413

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http://www.team-azarashi.com/framepage3.html

Looking to uber-out your Hot Bodies D413? If so Azarashi has a very cool looking carbon fiber conversion kit that can help make your buggy the coolest one on the track. The Azarashi conversion kit is set-up to use shorty LiPo packs and a low profile servo mounted vertically. The kit comes with a body, but not body mounts, so you’ll have to formulate your own. To get more information on all the neat upgrades Azarashi makes simply hit up This Link.

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Type-R Clear Body for D413

This is a Type-R clear body for HB D413. Now you can have the same body that Ty Tessmann runs on his D413: Type-R! Type-R came from the mind of Pro-Line Team Driver Ty Tessmann with a unique mid-cab look and undercut side pods that break away from all of the recent cab forward trends. The Type-R body fits perfectly around the triangulated shock towers of the D413 and features kick up in the rear of the body for balanced front to rear down force. Pro-Line’s new Type-R body style is a single piece body unlike the stock 3-piece screw together unit, which is difficult to paint and mount. If you have the D413 buggy, then you NEED to get Pro-Line’s Type-R body!

top_eur_1329_e.jpg

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Haaaa, la mort imminente de cette hideusete qu'est le cab-forward!!!

Y a un petit air de Yz10 la dedans - j'aime bien :)

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Pour la date amainhobby ils on mis une date ........

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bon toujours pas dispo??? Et il y a quelqu'un qui aura la bonne idée de sortir une baignoire pour proteger le chassis carbone??

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bon toujours pas dispo??? Et il y a quelqu'un qui aura la bonne idée de sortir une baignoire pour proteger le chassis carbone??

pas besoin de baignoire...

Il y a des film plastique auto collant qui vont très bien pour protéger les châssis

Faut juste prendre ceux qui sont fait pour protéger les VTT. Ils sont super résistant est protège très bien les châssis

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pas besoin de baignoire...

Il y a des film plastique auto collant qui vont très bien pour protéger les châssis

Faut juste prendre ceux qui sont fait pour protéger les VTT. Ils sont super résistant est protège très bien les châssis

Une adresse peut-être? Pas trop pénible à enlever (résidu de colle,...)?

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enfin la baignoire protege aussi les vis!!! plus besoin d'enlever la terre dans la tete de vis!!! mais l'idée du film est bonne aussi . Merci

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+1 avec G-rem je suis à la recherche de film de protection VTT pour mon RB6 et je ne serais pas contre une adresse... Merci.

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Clear protect pour protéger le chassis, avec possibilité de choisir la taille.

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Une adresse peut-être? Pas trop pénible à enlever (résidu de colle,...)?

j'achète mon film de protection VTT dans une boutique VPC spécialisé dans le VTT en Angleterre

Mais on doit en trouver un peu partout je pense

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Tip from Richard Lowe - When I built mine (same applied on the B44 motor clamp) I put the cam into the motor mount, screwed the clamp down on top of it, covered the little grub screw in thread lock (plenty) and screwed it in just until it stops. Then remove the clamp and screw the grub screw in another half turn or so, so it's just proud on the inside of the clamp. That way when you tighten the clamp down the grub screw bites into the cam a bit and stops it moving. It also pushes the clamp off the cam a touch in the middle and puts a bit of bend into it, so you've got the clamp trying to spring back straight working to hold the motor still too.

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des commentaires sur cette voiture par un suedois

===================================================================

I've had the D413 for two months now and here's a little summary of my experience with it so far.

Building

Building this car was a very pleasant experience. Very nicely organized bags with parts, minimizing the risk of mixing things up. No parts come on trees, which is always a plus. The fit and finish was very good and gave a over all feeling of high quality. The manual is ok, but I've seen better. It's mostly pictures and not so much text to guide and give tips. I was a surprised that it didn't mention anything about using grease in some critical places (like the outdrive shafts, diff/input gear joint, etc). It also didn't mention anything amount sealing the edges on the exposed carbon fiber parts. People with some building experience will know when and where things like these are needed, but I definitely think the manual should mention it. The only real modification I needed to do during the build was to dremel the motor mount to be able to access the set screw on the pinion.

EDIT: I forgot to mention another minor modification I had to do. On one of the machined diff gears, the hole for the outdrive was super tight and I was barely able to get the outdrive in. It just didn't feel right. I noticed a burr on the inside edge of the hole, which I gently removed with a drill. After doing that the outdrive went in easily and had the expected play.

Driving

I've got about 50 packs of track time with it so far. I've run it mostly on high to medium grip astroturf tracks, with everything form small to large jumps. I'm very happy with how the car handles. It feels easy to drive and responds well to setup adjustments. The car has very responsive steering, without feeling twitchy. I generally dislike understeered cars, so this fits my driving style nicely.

I've done two races with this car so far. In both races I've felt very confident with the car and how it handles, and I've been able to just drive it like I want to and get into a rhythm. First race: TQ + Win. Second race: Qualified second + Win.

Setup

The setup I've used most of the time is basically the stock/manual setup, with the following adjustments:

- Shocks front: 4x1.3, Kyosho 600 oil, Kyosho Orange spings, 3mm limiter inside shock

- Shocks rear: 4x1.3, Kyosho 400 oil, HB Yellow spirings, 1mm limiter inside shock

- Diffs: 15k-100k-5k (Kyosho oils)

- Sway bars: None or coppar (1.2mm) in front, black (1.4mm) in rear

- Orion 6.5T, Orion R10 ESC

- Kyosho 21 steel pinion

Durability

What have I broken so far? Nothing! Well, I have broken the wing, but that doesn't count I've had a few really nasty crashes, like running hard into the wall after the straight, but it has held up very well. I actually bought two kits right away, just to have spare parts for every possible scenario, but haven't actually needed anything from the second kit yet

Haven't had any problems with stripping the spur gear, but I did notice some dents in it from dirt finding it's way in under the body. I made a little lexan cover (see pictures) to keep dirt away from the spur/pinion area, and it seems to be working as the amount of dents have not increased much since then.

Also haven't had any heat issues. Both ESC and motor is well below any problematic temperatures and I use a fair a mount of boost and turbo. I use a fan on the ESC, but no fan on the motor.

I like the shape of the 4-piece body, but it feels a little weak, especially the joints where you bolt it together. The first time I drove the car one of the screws was ripped out from one of the side pods. After that I added 3 extra screws on each side (see pictures) and it's been holding up after that.

Never had a shock pop off, but I will probably get the aluminium shock caps when they are available. Just to be safe, and because they look better

Tips

- The shock travel is enormous, especially in the front, use limiters inside the shocks.

- The SWORKz S104 wing fits perfectly on the D413 and lasts forever compared to lexan wings. Highly recommended.

- Cover the spur/pinion area with a piece of lexan.

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Le 413 sera dispo. en France mi juillet, 469€ env.

Pour les films châssis : asso, losi, aza, jc etc.

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On Sunday we caught up with Hotbodies Ty Tessmann at the 17th Annual Hot Rod Hobbies Shootout. He was the overall TQ and winner in 4wd Mod Buggy class. We did an under the hood look at his Hotbodies D413… Check it out!

Chassis: Hotbodies D413

Tires: Pro-Line

Radio: Airtronics M12

Servo: Savox SB-2274

Motor: Team Orion VST2 Pro 5.5T

ESC: Team Orion Vortex R10 10.1 Pro

Battery: Team Orion Shorty Pack

Body: Pro-Line Type R

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Tune your D413 for optimal performance with this range of optional parts:

#112763 - REAR SHOCK TOWER ©

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#112800 - FRONT SHOCK TOWER (A)

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#112801 - REAR SHOCK TOWER (A)

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#112803 - SUSPENSION ARM COVER SET (CARBON GRAPHITE)

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#112804 - ACKERMANN ARM (3)

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#112805 - ACKERMANN ARM (5)

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Bonjour a tous,

Je suis en train de remonter mon D413. J'ai un soucis, je voudrais le monter en saddle mais l'arriere de mon moteur touche au niveau de la direction.

Quel moteur faut il pour cette configuration? J'ai un tekin, un sonic mais ils ne passent pas.

Merci par avance pour votre aide

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Il faut que tu compare les dimensions de ton moteur avec celle des autres marques

Moi j ai eu la meme chose mais avec un speed passion avec prise amovible au cul du moteur , je suis donc passez en shorty

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Ils vont sortir une nouvelle direction. Deguzman a reçu les pièces protos.

Ou alors, dremel. Dixit un mec bossant pour tekin.

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merci de vos reponse,

ca va etre dremel en attendant la nouvelle direction. En esperant qu'ils soient plus rapide que pour la voiture.

encore merci

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4wd Electric Bearing Sets for B44.3, D413, and 22-4

The ROAR National Champion Onyx Bearing line has expanded to outfit the 3 newest 4wd Electric buggies on the market. Get ready for the indoor racing season and outfit your Associated B44.3, Hot Bodies D413, or TLR 22-4 with a premium Schelle bearing set. As always, sets come in a re-usable snap case wrapped with the Schelle logo and graphics.

Onyx series Ball Bearings are the recommended upgrade bearings for any racer looking for improved performance and longer life. Onyx series bearings are built to reduce drag and come lubed with specialty grease. Onyx bearings have a lower starting torque which results in more power to the ground and longer run times. In addition, the split seal configuration gives the protection of the rubber seal against dirt on 1 side, and the reduced drag of the metal shield on the second side.

SCH2290 Hot Bodies D413 Bearing Set

4543-sch2290_1.jpg

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ces videos "unboxing" sont exasperantes... faut qu'ils commencent a les vendre plus cheres, leurs cameras digitales. Zero interet...

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