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Hot Bodies D413

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In an exclusive interview with NeoBuggy, HB / HPI driver Atsushi Hara revealed HB plans to enter the 1/10th market with a 4WD buggy in time for the World Championships which will be held in Chica, California in September. It won’t come as a complete surprise given the attendance of Hara and HB team mate Ty Tessmann at this year’s Reedy Race in La Mirada, CA.

In the video interview Hara explained the duo are still running other brand cars with Tessmann running Associated 2WD & 4WD, whilst Hara ran AE at last year’s Reedy, this time he chose to run Durango’s 4WD buggy and surprisingly a mid-motor Kyosho RB6 – citing the fact that the AE car is very good but given that Neumann won last year’s event with a Durango he was running that to test and understand where it might be faster as well as different.

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On dirait un Durango.

Parce que cela en est un. Avec un RB6 à coté.

Edited by coconuts

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Sur le site HPI/Hotbodies, il y a la news...

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/article/view/2013080201

Apparemment ce nouveau 4x4 1/10e s'appelle le D413 (D4 2013, ils auraient pu trouver mieux...)

A suivre pour voir si il sort un jour a la vente celui la...

Car ils sont quand même fort pour faire des proto, et pas les sortir par la suite chez eux.

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Ce proto à l'air bien abouti avec des pièces plastiques injectée.

Avec la mode du 1/10 elec il n'y a pas de raison que la voiture ne soit pas en production prochainement.

Enfin j'espère, ca va être sympa toutes ces nouveautés.

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Whilst Ty Tessmann impressively leads qualifying in 4WD with the HB D413, we caught up with it’s designer, Torrance Deguzman who shared a few titbits of information on the car that everyone wants to sneak a cheeky peak at… First off testing initially started back in April, however significant changes meant that the current prototype Ty is running was actually raced for the first time only at the Hot Rod Hobbies shootout a few weeks ago, we hear the car is planned for general release at the end of the year, perhaps with a World title behind it to boost potential sales? Hopefully we didn’t jinx it…

The suspension arms are carried over from the D413′s overgrown cousin, 1/8 scale off road D812 with the carbon fiber stiffeners. The target is to be able to drive at 110% while not having to worry about breaking anything, which is often the case with 1/10 scale cars when driven on or past the limit. The car comes with metal diff gears.

If you look closely at the pictures you’ll notice 3 screws on each side (visible at the top of the side pods, by the Pro-Line & Much More stickers). This is actually due to the body being split into four separate pieces - the nose, the cockpit or cab and the sidepods. Due to the undercut shape of the sidepods the body cannot be moulded as one piece as it would be impossible to remove it from the body mould – how long before we might see more of this on other cars and classes?

The undercut is a result of the chassis being narrower than the upper outer edges of the sidepods. That allows the chassis to be narrow which is great for corners as the chassis doesn’t bottom out, while the body is still wide which helps in the air when jumping.

www.neobuggy.net/2013/08/10/hb-d413-details-revealed/

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DSC_8018-L.jpg

The new Hot Bodies D413 isn't a secret for PETITRC and for you in few seconds... All you want to see and learn about this new car is here. ENJOY!

Thank you HPI for this opportunity.

la nouvelle Hot Bodies D413 n'a plus de secret pour PETITRC et pour vous dans quelques secondes... TOUT ce que vous voulez voir et apprendre de cette voiture est disponible !

Merci à HPI pour cette présentation.

No slipper but a central gear diff

A-arms can flex and this flex is controlled by adding either a plastic or carbon fiber cover. Those cover can be either being screwed or screwed AND glued to obtain diffrent flex

DSC_8004-X2.jpg

DSC_8010-X2.jpg

DSC_8012-XL.jpg

All pictures / Toutes le sphotos -> http://petitrc.smugmug.com/Hobbies/2013-Off-Road-WC/Day-5/32134798_Kjshbd#!i=2792946471&k=6dRGMGv

Follow us in our daily Live coverage -> http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showthread.php?73616-PETITRC-LIVE-Coverage-2013-IFMAR-Off-Road-Worlds-Championship-22-29-sept-2013

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2013 IFMAR Worlds Thursday New Products - Hot Bodies D413 - RCCA coverage

Hot Bodies design engineer Torrance DeGuzman shows off Hot Bodies' new 1/10-scale electric 4WD buggy for the first time during the off-day before the start of the 4WD portion of the 2013 IFMAR Electric Off-Road World Championships.

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en tout cas sur ce coup la bravo petitrc car vous etiez les tout premiers :) C'est qui votre espion sur place?

Paul

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After a super-busy season of racing, Ty Tessman is relaxing back home in Canada with another ROAR Championship and 3rd place overall at the recent IFMAR Worlds - both achievements taken with the help of his HB D413!

We were lucky enough to be able to steal a few minutes from his busy schedule and get a few questions to Ty as he worked on his buggy:

Thanks for talking with us Ty! We know that the RC racing world is anxious to hear what it's like to drive the D413.

First things first: the designer of the D413, Torrance Deguzman, says that he designed the car to be super-durable so that drivers can feel confident about pushing 100% without fear of breaking. How long did it take for you to get used to driving full-bore around the track? Were there any big changes to your driving style required?

I was able to drive the car like I drive my 1/8 scale so it wasn't hard for me, when I drove my previous 4WD cars I felt that I couldn't push the car, if I had to make a pass like taking a jump long or jumping a curb I didn't have the confidence that the car could take it. I had to drive accordingly, if I got behind I basically had to hope for the other driver to crash I just couldn't go any faster. With the D413 I have the confidence that no matter what I throw at it, it isn't going to break so that if I have to step it up a bit I don't really give the car's durability a second thought. This is very important in mains when it comes to side by side racing.

And did you have any ‘wow’ moments when something happened that you were sure had broken the car, but it kept on going?

There was the one moment in A2 at the worlds where Cavalieri spun out in front of me, I had nowhere to go and I hit him and spun out, and then Maifield was right behind me with also no where to go hit me. It all happened within about a second, both their cars broke and I drove away, it was a pretty spectacular crash and definitely showed the durability of the D413, although I did bend the front sway bar.

You were qualified 3rd to start the triple A-Mains and you’re the reigning ROAR Champion, so you’re no slouch on the track, but just ahead of you, there's one racer trying to hang onto his World title and ahead of him is the European Champ on pole, who’s going to be desperate to not let anyone past. Do you think there was more pressure on them than there was on you going into the mains?

I can't speak for them but for me this is probably the second most nerve wracking race I have ever run, a lot of the pressure I felt was put on me by myself, I really wanted to do well with the new car, I did everything I could to prepare for this race, I think the only thing that could have been better is if I could have had more time with the car but I would have to say that the last couple of laps of the 3rd main was the most nervous I have ever been in my racing career.

And how do you deal with race pressure like that when a World title is on the line? What kind of tips could you give someone who gets on pole for the first time at a club event?

I say a silent prayer that my Lord and saviour will help me to stay calm and focused on what I need to do which is drive my own race and don't crash. To someone that is on pole for the first time at a club race I would say try and stay calm, take a deep breath, run your own race, you are on pole for a reason you are obviously fast enough just try not to crash.

In the second A-Main, you went through 2 crashes that could have ended your run, (I think with a broken car in each incident), and in fact we saw in the A3 run Matsukura broke to lose his chance at the title, and we saw Lutz break in the A1 as well – if drivers are this rough at the World Championship level, how do you think the D413 will hold up in clubman races around the world?

This was my first electric worlds and I was quite surprised how rough the 4WD mains were, this track was extremely difficult and extremely fast and throwing the wind factor in made it even more difficult but I can honestly say that the thought of me breaking my car never crossed my mind. I ran all practice, all qualifying and all the mains without breaking once, the only parts I replaced were the inner hinge pin mounts that wore from the abrasive surface, one slightly bent shock screw and one sway bar from the crash in A2. I think that without question the D413 will definitely outlast every other car on the track.

Back to racing tips for a moment: the Worlds track was huge, and presumably you have to learn the track a section at a time – what’s your process for learning a new track, especially one with such tough and complex areas?

Before the race even starts my Dad and I walk the track and we pretty much have the lines figured out before I even drive on the track, then I just have to learn how much throttle for each jump and each section. The depth perception from the drivers stand is always slightly different and on the worlds track the drivers stand was unusually high for an electric race, the first couple of laps I kind of take it easy getting the angles and speed figured out, it normally only takes the first practice round to get the layout figured out and then I need to work on getting more and more speed as I go.

And back to the D413: For you, what was the difference between the shorty LiPo, which is what 4WD buggies seem to be moving to, and saddle pack? What advantages will HB racers have being able to swap between the two setups? Will it be as big as going from rear- to mid-motor in 2WD?

The difference between the shorty and saddle pack is not that big it is more of a subtle change, the shorty makes the car lighter and more nimble and the saddle pack basically slows everything down, the handling response is toned down and the car feels a little bit lazier. I could definitely see using the saddle pack on really rough tracks, like the one that the Euros was run on this year.

Finally, when the D413 gets in racer’s hands around the world, they’re going to want to know the best setup – which is going to be yours, obviously! So what’s the number one thing racers should do with the D413 when they get it built properly?

Until the car is released we are kind of keeping everything under wraps as to not give our competition any insight into what we are doing but when it is released we will have setups for both loose and high bite tracks and we are working on some build tips videos that will be posted on my website and also be shared with HPI for their website.

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer these questions, Ty!

Thanks to HPI for giving me the opportunity to share my thoughts on this awesome car.

We'd like to thank Ty and the rest of 'Team Tessmann' for their help and achievements this year: his father Gord, mother Leann and sister Jesse!

http://www.hpiracing.com

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/tKsm_ZkYlV8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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bonjour,

est ce que quelqu'un aurais des info sur la date de sortie ou toujours pas

c'est dur d'attendre

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conseils du concepteur

Now that the car is almost here I guess I'll post some build tips that I've found. On my previous post I mentioned o-rings and the o-ring spacer. I guess that'll be the first tip.

Build Tip #1

Ty uses Kyosho x-rings which adds smoothness. During testing after the Cactus the AE guys gave us some of their new x-rings to try. They claim theirs work as well without the Kyo price. Haven't tried them yet though.

I do the poor-man method... I use the stock o-rings but replace the spacer between them with a 1.5mm ballstud washer instead (the standard spacer is 2mm). Smoothens the shock action without leaks.

Build Tip #2

The shock can be built bladder style or emulsion style. I think the manuals shows it being built with a bladder. If you choose to build it emulsion style you'll have to trim the bladder. (I don't have a good pic now but I'll add it later)

There's also a small dimple on the shock cap that you can ream out. If you build it bladder style this helps the excess oil escape when screwing on the cap. 1/8 guys should be familiar with this feature.

1183315d1396403944-hot-bodies-d413-1-10-4wd-buggy-img_0905.jpg

Build Tip #3

I made the spring collar o-rings a little on the tight side in case if some drivers like them tight. If you want to loosen the collar action you can cut off a portion of the o-ring before stuffing it into the collar. For me I use a 3/4 ring (cut off 1/4).

1183316d1396404087-hot-bodies-d413-1-10-4wd-buggy-img_0904.jpg

Build Tip #4

During the initial build you pop the shock onto the tower ball stud. However in order to prevent the fit from getting sloppy over time, do not pop it off the ball when removing the shock. Instead used the supplied stamped wrench and undo the nut instead.

1183317d1396404133-hot-bodies-d413-1-10-4wd-buggy-img_0900.jpg

Build Tip #5

You can adjust your droop by threading the shock eyelet in and out. The shafts and eyelets were designed for this so you don't run out of thread. The shock shafts already have markings on them.

1183318d1396404182-hot-bodies-d413-1-10-4wd-buggy-img_0914.jpg

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